7 Step Product Photography Guide Improve Your Skills
Product Photography: Your products’ perceived value and your brand’s credibility are often judged on your visual presentation quality. That means having beautiful, high-quality product photography can go a long way.
However, not every store owner can invest in a professional photo studio, especially when starting; only DIY product photography offers a great alternative. You know the right tools and techniques. Take mandatory product photos. It is within your understanding.
But it’s not just about aesthetics. Showing high-quality images to your products can mean the difference between a conversion and not selling at all. This is especially true if you also distribute your products on marketplace sites like Amazon, where photograph of your products appear alongside your competitors.
The quality of your product photography directly influences the perceived quality of your products.
But when you’re just starting, it can be scary to run out of your product photos because professional photography is often expensive. However, there are hundreds of product photography tools here to help you get the job done.
As a business owner with weak startup roots, I understand this better than anyone. I also know that sometimes money just doesn’t stay. If you and your budget are tight, have you considered moving into DIY-style product photography? It is not as difficult as you think.
There are various techniques for photographing any type of product. But what I am going to show you is that it is generally known to everyone as a window light technique. For anyone who photographs products every day, this tutorial has been created especially for merchants on a budget. It is designed to be general while creating excellent, high-quality results for most types of products.
DIY Guide to Product Photography Equipment You Need
The team is at the center of photography, and it can be fascinating, but it cannot be very clear for newcomers.
You don’t have to spend a large part of your budget on high-tech tools, so keep your mind open and try not to spend extra money on devices that illuminate your product rather than a five-card five-piece, for example. If you already own a camera, you can probably set this window light to 20 or less.
You just need a few things for this setup.
You don’t need a crazy camera system. It’s great to shoot with a Nikon D810 ($ 2,000) with a 105mm f1.4 lens ($ 740), although in this case, it’s completely unnecessary.
Still, suppose you’re feeling excited and budgeting for a new camera system for this project. In that case, I highly recommend you choose a good camera for product photography. If you have your smartphone, that’s fine.
I started with my previous model (2006), feeling the rhythm of the Canon G10 trigger point. I like the Canon G series’s point-and-shoot because they can be wholly manual and shoot a large RAW file. I chose this camera because it is not at the top of the line anymore, which allows me to show it even with moderate equipment, achieving good results.
So, what camera do you need? I’ll start with what you’ve used and see what the results will be. It is a basic myth that it is the camera that makes the images. The camera is a complete piece. A photograph comprises various options, including lighting, exposure, style, and post-processing.
Without being too technical, you will set your camera to a tiny aperture so that your camera can get the maximum depth of field that it is capable of.
Depth of field defines the sharp focus field, and you need the largest f / stop number your camera can get. Related to shutter speed and f / stop. Since a larger f / stop number gives less light than an f / 8, you have to deal with it by using a slower shutter speed to make it lighter.
When the camera shutter is slow, you can not hold it, or the subject will go out of focus, so a tripod is your answer. If you are interested in learning more about photography’s basics, I made this video through Harrington College of Design. I found that most point-and-shooters don’t let you choose your f / stop. That’s fine, and there are ways to approach it, which I will discuss step by step.
Again, not all money should be spent on the trip at this point in your adventure. Some options cost $30 below. I quickly searched Amazon and found something that would work for 20
- White background
There are plenty of options for a white background, and if you’re going to shoot a lot, you might want to get a white sweep from Amazon. I like a paper sweep because brooms get messy, and you can cut off the dirty part and roll up a new piece.
The cheap option is to go to your local drugstore or art store and buy card stock. For ten sheets of card stock, I saw it as low as 7 7. If you are looking for pure white, remember that off-white or cream will become more complex.
- Made of Foam Board White Bounce Card
You turn on the light with window lights. There will be a bright side where the light attracts the product and a shadow side. This side of the shadow will generally be darkened, so we use something whiter to bring the light back to the shadow. The foam board is ideal for bounce cards because it is stiff and white.
Alternatively, you can use a black foam board to deepen the shade. You’re shooting, but it’s especially effective a white product against a white background. Adding a black foam board to the back of the product will create a dark border on the white product at the front of the photo. Combine a white bounce card on the show and a black bounce card on the back for more sophisticated lighting.
You can buy foam boards on Amazon or at any local drugstore. Remember, this is just a white card to balance a sheet of white printer paper or use a piece of card stock instead.
A standard 24- to 27-inch-wide folding table works best.
Depending on the table you have finished, you can use tape or clamps to secure your table so that it flies appropriately.
- The Right House
A house with a window against the border is perfect. The window will be as large as the natural light. Staying further away will give more light, but with more precise and sharper shadows.
How Is Your Product Photographed on White Background?
Okay, let’s process it step by step, taking pictures of your product.
Step 1: Set Up Your Table
Once you’ve collected your gear, it’s time to set up your shooting area. Keep your table as close to the window as possible without cutting into the window sill shade. Ninety degrees left or right side of your setup, you can start with windows. You’re near the window, and the window will be as large as can be found in more natural light.
Also, keep in mind that the other dry room you are running will contaminate all the different light sets found inside. This is very important and the most common mistake I see.
You can try rotating the assembly so that the window is at 45 degrees or shooting directly with the window for a different lighting style. For example, food photography is often taken with a window behind the setting, and the camera is shot in the window for more dramatic photos. Another variant is to place it in a garage with the door open, which will have the same qualities as windows except for glass.
You don’t want to hit your set directly. Direct sunlight is strong and looks terrible on most older models, products, and products.
Step 2: Set Up Your Sweep
But there are different ways to do it end goal is to keep the sweep vertical. You need to roll up your board to help it take shape.
Place your product in the center of the flat part of the sweep, and then leave enough room to tear off your white image card.
Step 3: Set Up Your Camera
Each camera is a bit different, some are fully automatic, and some can adjust. This window light setting’s beauty is that you can set everything to automatic if needed, and it will continue to work.
- Your white balance (WB) to Auto (AWB) set.
- Turn off flash settings.
- Set the image settings to the highest quality (RAW, if any). Most of This file can shoot the largest camera and uses the full bit depth of the camera. However, it would be best to edit software that reads RAW images (e.g., Photoshop, Bridge, Lightroom, Aperture).
If you don’t have R, set it to the largest JPG setting you have. On my Canon, there are two settings for two searches:
Size: Choose L- (Large), M- (Medium), S- (Small) Large. This setting determines the file size and image quality for nearly all-suite largest file size you want to. You can always shrink after taking one photo at a time, but you cannot enlarge it.
Quality: S (super fine), F (fine), N (normal). You should always set it to superfine. This setting determines the number of pixels used in the camera sensor. Not using all available pixels will provide a lower quality image.
Set your ISO to 100. ISO sensitivity control sensor. The higher the ISO, the more sound. Generally, the minimum ISO you can set on your camera is ISO 100, so put it if you can.
Option A: Your Camera Manual (M) Set
Nothing will happen because it is the best setting for this kind of work to change or change while taking pictures. In the manual, change your f / stop to the maximum number, which gives you the maximum depth of field.
Preview the image behind the camera via live view. It’s probably all pretty dark, which is fine. Now, change your shutter speed and turn the dial to make it so bright that the image displays correctly.
Your shutter number should go down as you do so. For example, your number could range from 1/60 to 1/4. This is a fraction of a second, which will keep the shutter open. As the number decreases, it will shed lighter. Adjust this number until the image preview is correct.
Option B: Use Aperture Priority
Your camera may not have it, but if it does, change the f / stop to the maximum number. Automatically adjust the shutter to see what the camera should be. This can be incorrect, and you will need to use the exposure compensation dial to add light.
Option C: Automatic Exposure
If you are stuck in the world of cars, you may have nothing to do. Don’t despair, it’s no big deal. If you dial the correct exposure compensation to +1 or +1.5, you may need to add it. If you have to do is choose from images taken by Running Man, then try something like Sunset. With iPhone, touch the area you want to express accurately.
Use the histogram behind the camera. As shown in the image above, you are looking to zoom in on the right side.
Exposure tip: don’t create the image on the back of the camera; Instead, pay attention to the histogram to see if your exposure is correct. The right side of the right hand is white, and the left hand is black. The image above has some spaces to the right, which means there is no pure white. The white background represents the curved portion is not over until the right edge of the touch Adjust exposure. In this example above, you will probably need to add 1/3 of a stop or click to give more light.
The camera usually has an optical zoom and a digital zoom. Do not use digital zoom, which will reduce the image quality as it basically crops the digital image. If you have optical zoom, try to zoom as far as possible without digital zoom. The longer zoom will eliminate the distortion caused by the wide-angle lens. For example, mobile phones have a wide-angle lens, which is a common problem.
Step 4: Install Your Product in The Middle of The Surface.
Setting up your product is something that seems easy but can take time, it’s perfect. If it’s a bottle, for example, you need to keep the label type centered. Many small movements and adjustments are often required to align everything perfectly.
Step 5: Configure the Reflector Card.
This simple white card is the most important light modifier in our Studio, and I use it for every session. The light card will launch and fill with all the shadows. How you place this card is a matter of taste, so try to use it in different corners of the product.
Step 6: View and evaluate the image.
Take a moment to take a photo and see what you’ve created. This is where experience and learning are effective. What works, what doesn’t, and what can you do to improve it? Experiment with different ways to improve your image, and your skills will naturally improve over time.
Upload yours to your computer to get a better idea of what your images look like. The back of your camera is never perfect. I recommend using Adobe Lightroom to organize your images. It will also be used for all your edits., except for the very advanced process. You definitely need to make some adjustments to make the images look good.
Post-production software like Adobe Lightroom is very deep, and we don’t have time to go into the details of its use at this point because it is too much. Free photo editing softwarer you can use for basic needs.
Step 7: Retouch Your Images.
Once you have a final image that you are happy with, it is time to recover. If you pick up your product correctly, the product should be properly exposed, and its background should be light gray. It should look like the unbleached images above. Comparing them to rebuilt versions shows you how important this step is in the process.
Retouching work related to blank photography can be difficult without much training, so instead of trying to teach you advanced Photoshop, I will show you how to outsource it.
Wonder how you can be affordable. At $1.49 per image, your professional retouching service Pixover Lab can improve your images.
Finding a good company can be difficult, but Pixover Lab are one of my favorite options. Its software allows you to load and manage you retouch from start to finish. Pricing starts at $1.45 per image with a minimum of $25, but you’ll get three free trial photos to get started.